Fans of matzo ball soup are often divided: some love “floaters” (light, fluffy matzo balls); others prefer “sinkers,” a denser style of dumplings. When Molly Baz developed this version, she tested hydration, fats, and multiple cooking methods to land on our ideal. The result is No-Nonsense Matzo Balls: tender, reliably light dumplings with no leavener, seltzer, or other gimmicks required.
Cooking the balls in well-seasoned, gently simmering water—not directly in the soup and not at a rolling boil—ensures they soak in plenty of flavor without clouding the broth. And about that broth: roasting chicken wings adds caramelized depth, while lightly poaching seasoned chicken legs gives tender meat without overcooking. For a leaner stock, chill it overnight, then skim off the schmaltz (use it to make the matzo balls!) before reheating.
This matzo ball soup recipe serves eight generously (two balls each) but can easily stretch to 16 smaller appetizer portions. It’s also organized so you can make the broth and matzo balls at the same time, or prep either portion a couple of days ahead.
Tips for the best matzo ball soup
Why cook matzo balls in water instead of the soup? Simmering the matzo balls in salted water seasons them evenly while keeping the final broth clear. Reheat made-in-advance matzo balls directly in the soup.
How much salt should I use? You’ll add a small amount of salt directly to the matzo ball dough, but the bulk will go into the cooking liquid. Think pasta water: salty enough to flavor the dumplings. Underseasoned water will pull flavor out of the dumplings.
Why chill the matzo mixture? Resting the matzo ball dough for at least 35 minutes gives the matzo meal time to hydrate, producing light, tender balls. The mixture may feel loose at first, but it will firm up in the fridge.
Can I substitute schmaltz? Yes. Duck fat and goose fat are easy substitutes, but you can also use neutral or light olive oil if you need a meat-free option. Or, go big and beefy by swapping in tallow (best if you’re making soup with beef broth). Rendering your own schmaltz from chicken skin or scraping it from the top of chilled broth is a money saver, but store-bought schmaltz works just fine.
Can I use store-bought stock? The most flavorful broth comes from roasting the wings, deglazing the pan, and simmering with lots of aromatics. But if you’re in a time crunch, you can skip that step and use your favorite low-sodium chicken broth.
